25,000 Bhutanese Masks: A Conversation with Graham Shackell
A Bhutanese Atsara mask for a ceremonial jester, pre-painting, by Yeshe Dorji, Thimphu, Bhutan. Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
Graham Shackell is trained in masked performance styles, including the Renaissance form, Commedia dell’arte, by Antonio Fava at his international school in Reggio Emilia, Italy, and in Japanese Noh performance by Kita master Matsui Akira. He is also a seasoned experimental theater performer, and he teaches stage combat. He is currently choreographing the stage combat for a timely production of George Orwell’s Animal Farm.
Graham has a degree in Archaeology and Anthropology, specializing in the archaeology of performance. He is also a professional field archaeologist working with the leading independent heritage organization Oxford Archaeology, as well as teaching at Southampton University. He explores: “What can we learn from our ancient past and ways of representing ourselves?”
Graham is a performer, a scholar, a theorist, and a mask-maker who has crafted traditional Noh masks under the guidance of Sensei Kitasawa Hideta. He has researched the great antiquity of mask use and representation worldwide, and perhaps believes more in their ephemeral animated performance power than in their abstract study, but is trained in both.
As a prelude to this interview, I spoke with Graham about a public mask-making course he offers to those healing from grief and trauma. I share the excerpt here as his explanation reveals much about the holism of his person and practice:
The course came about because . . . I was making a stone mask based on the 9,000-year-old “Levantine Pre-Pottery Neolithic B culture.” I was using flint tools (they weren’t really proper tools just some bits of worked flint I had found on archaeological sites that no one wanted), and they kept breaking and so did the stone. After my father died, I inherited his chisels, and tool bag—which it turns out has a much deeper family history—and while they were only carpenter’s chisels and not really for stone, they were enough to finish the mask. In the process, I found that making the mask, transforming the stone, was having a transformative effect on me also.
There is a kind of conversation between carver and source material. The material, whether wood or stone, quite often tells you what it wants to be, or in my case I can often “hear” it shouting at me: “What are you doing?! What do you want me to do?! Just tell me and I will help you!.” So we transform the material, and it transforms us—a mutual intersection and transformation, and then of course because it’s a mask, when you wear it, when you perform it, there is another transformation.
Added to this, we participants in the mask-making course, go for walks together to look at some “Places of Significance” throughout time, and through this, the course looks at the creation of Place within a “Landscape of Places” (human interaction—or intersection—with terrain being a mnemonic database of significance), and how Place/Landscape also transforms over time. So basically whatever difficulties you are having right now, its only temporary because, as the Persian poet said, “This too shall pass.” And this personhood of Place (a particular Place that has meaning to someone) is embedded in the mask.
Anyway, the short version is that I realized mask-making was helping me in my grief, and thought it might do the same for others. . . .
A mask in progress from the current round of “Face about the Place” mask-making project for folks living with depression, anxiety, and/or persistent grief complex. Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
BDG: You work in both practical and theoretical aspects of mask-making and mask research. How do these complement each other in your study of masks?
Graham Shackell: I spoke with a group of digital future artists. That was in the evening, and in the daytime I’d been excavating a Saxon cemetery. So I’d come back from being covered in bone dust to talk about masks, and in a very theoretical way. It’s quite an interesting kind of dichotomy, really: you have this very practical aspect, literally people’s DNA under my fingertips; and then talking about the theory of masks and how that might relate to people’s performances in the past and even in the present.
For me, it’s always been about both—a dual pathway as a performance archaeologist; there are very few of us. I don’t know if we have an advantage or a disadvantage, but we have something different to other people: we have an understanding of performance on a practical level as well as a theoretical level.
Putting the two together is quite a difficult path to tread in some ways, because performance is ephemeral. It exists in a certain temporality and then it’s gone. So you can’t even capture performance, because even a recording or a cave painting or a soundtrack of a performance is not the performance. It’s a way of recording it, but it isn’t the thing itself. Once the thing has happened it’s gone forever, you know?
But you can try to decode a performance from its surviving materiality, such as mask. Or if you’re looking at the ground, you might be able to determine a dance platform or a dance ground, where the earth is very compressed. You can’t prove something conclusively; you’re having to use interpretation, which is all archaeology is anyway: interpretation.
Kokushiki-Jo has a sad, thoughtful moment perambulating around Hollingbury Iron Age hill fort, from The Perambulations of Kokushiki-Jo Project’. Character and mask by Graham Shakell. This is one of the oldest masks in Noh, based on one of the oldest masks in the world, emanating from Siberia. The split jaw, tied by strings, indicates great antiquity in masks.* Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
Of the different projects that I’m focusing on, one is returning to Bhutan.
There is a cultural risk in Bhutan now. It’s changing fast. And it’s going to change even faster when GMC (Gelephu Mindfulness City) comes online. That’s going to open the doors to all sorts of things. A lot of international culture coming in. Already in the rural areas there are a lot of smartphones, and so there’s a lot of young people looking at cultures from outside Bhutan.
There is a huge amount of rural migration to the city. The demographic that this mostly hits is between 15 and 65 years old. This is partly for training, partly for work. But it impacts the primary group of participants in the rural festivals and dance rituals.
They’re losing the rituals by losing the ritual participants. They’re losing the numbers. Some villages are already unable to put on dances because they don’t have enough people to do so. People were losing interest a bit, you know?
Levantine Pre-Pottery Neolithic B Stone Mask 1; practical performance test. Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
BDG: I had this time-transcending medieval experience in Bhutan, before it was a democracy, start to finish. Bhutan was always held up as a pristine environment of cultural expression, and this was when Core of Culture worked there from 2003–08. Few roads, and bad ones at that.
I believe this is why the Fourth King wanted a dance survey and documentation conducted during the final five years of the monarchy, while dance was still comfortably ensconced in villages all over the kingdom—a theocracy and true kingdom.
Now, you would say that Bhutan’s social and, therefore, ritual cohesion is really under threat?
GS: Yes. Although they are working hard; I think the government and the king are quite keen to protect their identity. But they are also keen to give a lot of opportunity to international ways of doing business, let’s say. So I think there will be social and cultural fallout.
Opportunities are coming up and I think there are going to be a lot of people going abroad, encountering other cultures and bringing that back, and it’s also coming in through smartphones. So, yes, I think that rural traditions are seriously at risk.
Some villages can’t put on dances anymore. And at the moment, they are storing the masks; they’re still keeping the masks, but it’s tenuous. This depends on individual village leaders, and monks, and villagers.
A mask from the Fighting with Ghosts Project, embodying the personhood of place of Hollingbury Woods, Brighton, UK—specifically Elm disease, Ash dieback, and graffiti carved over many years onto Hollingbury Woods trees. Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
BDG: In the countryside, really every village has a set of masks. Very often in the countryside, the dancers are not monks, they’re gomchen—farmers who take on the roles of monks—and they’re often very good dancers.
As you’ve said, this is the precise age group that either goes to school or doesn’t, goes to college or doesn’t, wants a job as a farmer or doesn’t, upholds rituals or doesn’t, moves to the city or doesn’t. But as far as masks go, almost every little village will have a set of dance masks, often very old.
GS: Yes, and I think that’s what’s at risk. That’s my concern.
BDG: Of being sold, or being taken away, or being stolen and put on the art market . . . ?
GS: Or just lost, mislaid, if they’re not being used. It depends on the locals. If they have an interest in maintaining the masks, then they’re fine. But otherwise, there’s potential for them to be lost one way or another.
Unlike Core of Culture’s Bhutan dance survey and dance database, the masks are not registered or recorded in any kind a countrywide system of analyzing the masks. There is no data on these masks. And I think there must be at least, probably, 25,000 masks in Bhutan.
BDG: I would agree, and hearing that from a mask specialist, an expert, is interesting. Adding it up, there are more than 200 dance festivals in monasteries and village temples in Bhutan. You noted between 32–80 masks at each village, and the large state monasteries have hundreds of masks, so 25,000 masks is a good estimate for the total number in Bhutan.
GS: And then there is variation in masks, different lineages, and also very individual masks, such as local deities. About those masks, there is nothing—there is no detail. No one is looking at them, no one is making records.
BDG: Do you want to do that?
GS: Yes, I’m trying to secure the funding to do it.
It will be gone, you know? And some of these masks, like the local deity masks, we will have no idea. If we don’t act now, the people that danced in those masks will also be gone—they’re all moving away, or, if they’re older, they’re dying. So it feels like in the next five years or so, things will be really different for dancers and masks in Bhutan.
Levantine Pre-Pottery Neolithic B Stone Mask 2; practical performance test. Image courtesy of Graham Shackell
The Zhabdrung unified Bhutan in 1616, going back more than 400 years, with much of the dance and mask culture older, some going back to the eighth century. That’s a long time for a performative code to be more or less intact. As a performance archaeologist, that is really interesting, and rare, and coupled with a parallel mask tradition that can be studied and possibly decoded.
Masks enable us to look backwards in time, into the past, through looking at an object in the present. And there’s a generation after another that goes into the masks, and then suddenly, there isn’t a generation that goes into the masks. Then there’s no longer the integration of the mask with the person who’s part of it, who animates it, who is shaped by it, who uses it a vehicle of metamorphosis. This is one example of a process where culture becomes extinct.
BDG: Thank you, Graham, for your illuminating and urgent observations on vanishing Buddhist culture, seen through the lens of masks. Your words are a call to action.
A treasure dance or tercham. Bhutanese cham and protector deity mask, from Buddhist Dances, Movement & Mind by Joseph Houseal. Motilal Banarsidass, 2025, Delhi. Image courtesy of the author
* See: Okina, an Endless Blessing from Long Ago (BDG) and The Very Long Life of Bugaku (BDG)
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Ancient Dances TodayMessengers of Mind, Cultural Explorers and the Encounter with Buddhism, Part One: A Gallery of ExplorersMystical Dances in the Kingdom of Bhutan, Part 1: A Black Magic Dance at the Core of Bhutan’s FoundingTantric Bodies, Tantric Dance
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