Becoming Heruka
Konchok Rinchen, 11, right, sitting next to the author, Lamayuru Monastery, 2001. Image courtesy of the author
I met Konchok Rinchen when he was 11 years old. I was 40. We both arrived at Lamayuru Monastery on the same day, although for very different reasons. My teacher, Sonam Kunga Rinpoche, had sent me to witness the monastery’s cham dances. Rinchen had recently been orphaned. We became friends almost immediately. Twenty-five years later, we still are.
During this summer of 2026, Core of Culture, the organization I direct, has been working with three monasteries in Ladakh to reconstruct their Cham Yig, or ritual dance manual, which now is only fragments and parts of ancient manuscripts. Our work covered three monastic cham dance ceremonies that required three days each to complete.
Central to the Drikung Kagyu dance ceremonies is the destruction of the linga, a ritual effigy, by the powerful protector deity Heruka. This symbolizes the eradication of evil by one of the main protectors of the order. It is a dramatic and sometimes shocking enactment of dismemberment. As I watched this long cham dance—about an hour—preceded and followed by other hour-long dances, I noticed with what precision and unity the monks were performing. It is sometimes scrappier. This was elegant and beautiful.
Here, the leader somehow instilled a decorum among the 32 dancers, even masked, as they all were. There was an awareness permeating the whole scene, of dancers aware of each other; of a collective awareness that a sacred space, a mandala, had been formed by the dance, the perfect locus for an appearance by the deity, Heruka.
Heruka is among the great tantric protector deities, a wrathful embodiment of awakened wisdom who destroys obstacles—not people, but ignorance itself.
The whole dance, led by a dancer wearing the enormous wrathful Heruka mask, was stately and impressive, a shimmering masked danced mandala.
It was at once a personal meditative act by each monk and a collective mandala image forming, upon which the devout could meditate. It was perhaps the best performance of this Heruka Deity Cham I have seen in several decades. It was transporting.
My colleague Thinles Dorje came up the stairs to the platform where I was sitting: “Joseph!” he said, “Look at Heruka!” I told him I was looking at Heruka and how beautifully I thought the whole cham looked. “Joseph,” he said, “Heruka is Rinchen.”
I was astonished.
I had watched this dancer for nearly an hour without recognizing him. I saw only Heruka. When Thinles told me who stood beneath the enormous wrathful mask, the dance changed instantly. The deity became my old friend.
It was not surprising that Rinchen was dancing, but that he was performing a major deity role in one of the apex dances of the whole canon. I was further amazed because Rinchen was so exceptionally good, not only as a dancer but as a leader. When did he get so good? How did he move up to this exalted role? His yogic cultivation was obvious.
Kashmir by boat, 2015. Photo by Konchok Rinchen for Core of Culture
Rinchen has accompanied Core of Culture on a number of important projects. He has photographed for us in Kashmir, and in Spiti Valley, where he assisted in distributing the dance treatise The Snow Lion’s Attributes.
It was in Spiti, at Dankar Monastery, where we had a remarkable encounter with the dance master of that monastery belonging to the Gelug order. In that monastery, the appointed dance master, champon, is required to spend a year in a solitary cave retreat, practicing the deity yoga of the principal cham deities, usually Heruka, or Palden Lhamo. After one year practicing this tantric deity yoga of visualized embodiment, the yogi emerges spiritually and energetically transformed, and goes on to lead the dances, inspiring and imbuing all the dancers with his tantric empowerment. We were fortunate to meet Lama Tipa Tshering Tobden, who had only recently concluded his one-year champon retreat.
Dankar Monastery, Spiti Valley. Photo copyright Shivam Gupta
But Tsering Tobden was amused by how extraordinary I thought this conditioning for dance was: “We’ve been doing this every year for hundreds and hundreds of years. It is not extraordinary to us, it is just what we do. Now—having a foreign dance specialist in a mustard-colored suit come to visit us—that’s unusual.”
He went on to explain that the deity yoga for Heruka is the basic meditation visualization technique, and the other protective deities are variants of that well-known deity yoga. I’ve learned over the years that different orders and monasteries teach cham differently, and so too are their inner teachings that inspire and spiritualize the dance taught differently.
Lama Tipa Tshering Tobden of Dhankar Gompa sharing a laugh with Core of Culture director Joseph Houseal and field associate Dechen Lundup outside the Dalai Lama’s chambers, 2016. He was amused that we thought his extreme meditation requirements were exceptional. Photo by Konchok Rinchen for Core of Culture
In a simple way, some monasteries teach deity yoga as a practice for meditating monks, whether or not they will lead the dance. In these cases, it is easy to see how cham is a form of tantric yoga: it is deity yoga, plus. Once the deity is embodied as a tantric visualization, cham shows how the adept, in a trance-like state, can move, can perform deity actions, such as purifying the grounds and taming the mind. Cham shows how the deity (a monk in a trance-like state) can dance.
Some monasteries teach cham to young boys, so the movement is learned easily and becomes second nature. Then, teaching the meditation aspect when they are older is not at all obstructed by having to learn the dance at the same time. Tantric yoga becomes the focus of the act, not the dance and pacing steps. Other monasteries teach the inner condition of the dancing monk variously. The inner teachings of the dance are also variously recorded, or not, in the Cham Yig dance manuals that underpin the dances and their continuity.
In the Drikung Kagyu order, meditative visualizations empower the dancing monks. Their didactic inclusion in cham practice has fallen away, but is being revived these days.
Where Rinchen attained his composure as a dancer, and his energetic abilities to conduct and lead 32 dancers in his retinue, was, I deduced, an outcome of being a good and devout monk for many years, for practicing all his transmitted monastic acts with humility and clarity; all of a piece; part of a monk’s life. Clearly, he has a talent for understanding this ancient esoteric form of movement and, clearly, he has a talent to lead a large group in a concentrated, danced, ritual act. Great cham dancers are not simply trained in choreography. They are formed by years of monastic life. The dance grows out of the discipline rather than existing apart from it.
Rinchen was selected as a dancer when he was younger, and over time he has mastered and performed ever more complicated and important dances—such as the stag dance, a fast and partially improvised dance that includes high speed and quick changes of direction. It depicts the brilliant energy of an active mind. But learning a technically complex dance is far away from leading a whole mandala of 32 dancers with dignity and ritual propriety. This included the fundamental bearing of the monk dancers. Rinchen has an ability to impart and conduct this level of awareness and discipline. It is rare.
Konchok Rinchen dances the Stag, Lamayuru Monastery, 2017. He dances with intention. Image courtesy of Konchk Rinchen
We have asked Konchok Rinchen to accompany us as we work on our Cham Yig Project. During the next four years, Rinchen will accompany us as we reconstruct the Cham Yig. Our workshops bring together monks, scholars, musicians, dancers, and fragile manuscripts. Each has preserved a different part of the tradition.
It is a harmonious synergy, designed to encounter those places in the ritual dances where texts do not agree, or are unclear; where music may be missing; and where the oral tradition of transmitting dances person-to-person, over the decades and centuries, sustains a living tradition as it rebuilds its textual basis. Witnessing my old and dear friend Rinchen, whose disciplined and joyful life as a monk has resulted in him leading an ancient esoteric dance, was a highlight of my work this year.
Konchok Rinchen performing Heruka, along with his retinue. Lamayuru Monastery, 2026. Photo by Core of Culture
Something of a full circle. Rinchen’s mastery of this dance position has lined him up for greater responsibility at the monastery in years to come: he will likely become a champon, or dance master, and there are murmurs that he will become the dorje lopon, or master of all rituals, in due time. Humble and hardworking, it is all part of his life as a monk. I made sure he heard the words I realized I had carried for years, having watched 25 years unfold, “Rinchen, I am so proud of you.”
Konchok Rinchen, left, with Dr. Thinles Dorje during the 2026 Cham Yig Project. Behind the wrathful mask of Heruka is the smiling monk and longtime colleague I first met as an 11-year-old novice. Image courtesy of the author
See more
Core of Culture
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Ancient Dances TodayMystical Dances in the Kingdom of Bhutan, Part 1: A Black Magic Dance at the Core of Bhutan’s FoundingNabji, Part One: Bearing Relics
More from Ancient Dances by Joseph Houseal
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